Al Dente Fettuccine with Crispy Pancetta, Forest Mushroom Ragù, and Melted Leeks

Begin by preparing the vegetables: Trim the dark green tops and root ends from 3 large leeks, slice the white and light green parts into thin rounds, and submerge in cold water to remove grit. Clean 1 lb cremini and 8 oz shiitake mushrooms with a damp cloth and slice into 1/4-inch thick pieces. Mince 4 garlic cloves and strip enough leaves from the fresh thyme bunch to yield 1 tbsp.

Prepare the protein and cheese: Slice 8 oz pancetta slab into 1/4-inch cubes. Finely grate the 4 oz Parmigiano-Reggiano wedge to yield approximately 1 cup of cheese.

Fill a large stockpot with 6 quarts of water and 2 tbsp salt; bring to a rolling boil over high heat.

In a very large, wide skillet or saute pan, heat 1 tbsp olive oil over medium heat. Add 8 oz diced pancetta and cook for 6-8 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the fat has rendered and the pancetta is golden and crispy. Use a slotted spoon to remove the pancetta and set aside on a paper towel, leaving the rendered fat in the pan.

Increase the skillet heat to medium-high. Add 1 lb sliced cremini and 8 oz sliced shiitake mushrooms. Sauté undisturbed for 3-4 minutes to develop a deep brown crust, then toss and cook for another 5 minutes until tender and caramelized.

Lower the heat to medium. Add the 3 sliced leeks and 4 tbsp unsalted butter to the mushrooms. Sauté for 5-6 minutes until the leeks are softened and 'melted' into the mushrooms. Stir in 4 minced garlic cloves and 1 tbsp fresh thyme leaves, cooking for 60 seconds until fragrant.

Pour 1 cup dry white wine into the skillet. Use a wooden spoon to scrape up all the browned bits (fond) from the bottom of the pan. Simmer for 3-4 minutes until the liquid has reduced by half.

Stir in 1 cup heavy cream and 1/2 tsp black pepper. Reduce heat to low and let the sauce simmer gently to thicken while you cook the pasta.

Add 1.5 lbs dry fettuccine to the boiling water. Cook for approximately 8-9 minutes, or until the pasta is 2 minutes away from being 'al dente' (it should still have a firm bite in the center).

Using tongs or a pasta fork, transfer the fettuccine directly from the boiling water into the skillet with the mushroom ragù. Do not drain the pasta water. Splash 1/2 cup of the hot pasta water into the skillet.

Increase the skillet heat to medium-high. Toss the pasta vigorously with the sauce for 2 minutes. This 'finishing' technique allows the pasta to absorb the sauce while the starch from the pasta water creates a glossy, emulsified coating. If the sauce looks too thick, add more pasta water 1/4 cup at a time.

Turn off the heat. Sprinkle in 1 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano and the zest of 1 lemon. Toss one final time until the cheese is melted and the sauce is silky. Stir in the reserved crispy pancetta.

Divide among warm bowls and serve immediately, garnished with additional black pepper if desired.